Mine is ten years old and as fine as it ever was with only an occasional cleaning. I have a big family and cook a heck of a lot. Wood is easy on the eyes, the feet and legs, and the maintenance schedule! I love it. If a product works for you, then use it. I would. People have all kinds of hang ups about things they won't have in their houses. That doesn't affect what you do in your house. I have heard that vinyl can be layered over other surfaces, so the sales woman may have been speaking correctly.
I've never heard of grouting it though. I know you're asking about vinyl but I'll just throw this out there anyways in case it can help, but have you considered cork at all? That may be another option, it's easy to walk on, durable, green and it's become very affordable too. Let me clarify a couple of things too, for my situation specifically. The two products we brought samples home of are Congoleum Duraceramic, which says in the installation literature that it can be placed over a single layer of existing non-cushioned resilient flooring what I have and Mannington Adura, which says you can do it, but it's not the best for durability.
Both manufacturers recommend their own subfloor, which the tile is adhered to - and then they float that product over your existing flooring, as long as it meets the criteria and is properly prepared. What that may mean is, it would be more cost effective to just pull up my existing sheet vinyl anyway, since I foresee product and prep costs adding to the installation. I'm not concerned with asbestos as my home is only 11 years old. They also have to use the manufacturer provided acrylic grout specific to their products.
I'm guessing this grout works more with the pliability of a vinyl tile. I concede, that while my countertop could probably be raised to accomodate the hardwood, my uppers would still have to be raised - or my frig will not fit. It's probably not that big a deal, since I don't have that many cabinets, but it's worth considering. If I did hardwood, it would be everywhere except the laundry I think. With 5 kids and two dogs, going with what I want is probably not practical anyway.
THey have some fake wood that looks pretty realistic, but then I'd have to tear out my real wood, since they would adjoin. We also have the Nafco vinyl tiles. Like both the look and feel of them. They were already installed in the kitchen when we bought this house.
Couple of years later, we decided to replace the carpet in the front hall and foyer installed by the PO - can't imagine why with the same vinyl tile. Would never have known if not the contractor. I've seen them do it on HGTV also. They just say to offset it,and not to line it up exactly with the existing tile,and also start with a clean floor,wash it and rinse it well and let dry completely.
One of these days i'll do that here in my sewing room as the tile here now is Asbestos and there is no way i'm going to try and remove that. It 's just such an overwhelming job as i have to move all the stuff here in this room that also serves as my computor room also.
DH has some very nice tile in his office that he put down a few years ago,peel and stick,and when you look at it you'd think it was ceramic,nice texturey floor. Yes, mine are individual tiles, and were layed over sheet vinyl. The only problems we ran into were the transitions to the hardwoods in the adjoining rooms.
But we figured that out. You can see it at nafco. I have Duraceramic in my back hallway. It's laid over concrete. It is more comfortable underfoot than ceramic because there is a slight give.
I think it looks great. I remember some really bad ones I had it on my list to look at until i read that thread! I've also read and heard that you can put vinyl over vinyl - as long as the existing vinyl is in good condition. I'm thinking of putting vinyl down in many rooms and then just using an area rug in the rooms. I think I have a pic of a neat way to merge different flooring. I'll see if i can find it. The stuff wears like iron, is easy to maintain, holds it's sheen and is incredibly comfortable on the feet and legs.
They also recommended it to a few of their neighbors and friends. Personally, I would not have ceramic tile in a kitchen simply because I spend waaay too much time in it and ceramic tile would not only wreak havoc on my feet and legs I go barefoot , but it's very unforgiving on dropped items, of which I have some cherished ones. This photo was taken within the past year and you can see how nice it still looks after almost 10 years this summer will be the 10th year Everyone thinks it's really wood.
It was VERY expensive, but well worth it. It holds up to our dogs, cats and my messy DH. We've got HW floors throughout the rest of the house. We put duraplank solid vinyl planks in our basement Easy to care for, warm underfoot My only regret is that I let the contractor talk me out of removing my old tiles. I should have taken them out My handyman came and fixed them. I called him after the contractor ignored my calls I really like your floor!
Have had sheet vinyl put in over other well laid and in good condition sheet vinyl, and it looks great, feel better 2 layers of 'cushion' and there was no question of warranty problems as the store did the installation. I can't speak to the vinyl flooring, but ceramic tiles get VERY cold in the winter.
It was here when we bought the house. I didn't love how it looked, but since the house was only a year old, we couldn't justify ripping it out. After being here 7yrs, I would never put it in another home.
Good luck with your choice! Thanks for all the great opinions guys! Keep 'em comin'. I agree on cost! It's so funny that people hear "vinyl" and immediately think "cheap". Today's vinyl apparently is definitely just as pricey. I'm encouraged at least by the good experiences some of you have had with similar products.
I do have a concern about the hardness of real tile, and the coldness as well, since I live in WI. It seemed there were some people who really had a bad experience and that's scary. But, I will say, the more research I do on any floor product to the point that I'm dizzy you will find that. I'm starting to think that's it's a crap shoot. The Nafco stuff looks like it's made by Tarkett. The other flooring I was leaning heavily toward is the Tarkett Fiberfloor.
It's a heavy sheet vinyl type product that can be installed as a floating floor or full spread glue down. I found a really pretty pattern that I like in that, but then I read somewhere on a review that someone who had a lot of seams, which I would have, had some issues.
It scared me away from it. But, I might look at it again and just consider the glue down method. It would depend on how it comes out cost wise. You can click the link below and then click on her photostream to see better pics. I love her cottage kitchen! Here is a link that might be useful: Tisker's kitchen. At the time, we wanted the look of ceramic tiles. The tiles are dry-back and are installed with special adhesive. Since 10 years have almost passed I have to say I'm ready for a change but the darn flooring won't die LOL.
I can't see replacing it because of that Re-laminating counters is one thing because it's inexpensive, but flooring is another thing altogether. I laid vinyl in my dining room at the end of February and am very happy with it, it's not a premium product but I'm thinking of doing the rest of the living spaces in it because it's so durable and easy to clean with dogs and kids in the house. People are surprised when I tell them what it is, so it must look pretty good to others : My budget didn't allow for much of anything, so I got Trafficmaster Allure at Lowe's.
It's a floating floor so really easy to lay. I'd certainly use the premium stuff after this experience. We have those click together laminate flooring blocks that look like cobblestones. Now I am completely sold. I really love the laminate flooring. It's very easy to clean up and I know it can be replaced relatively easily.
It's very durable except that I have to be careful around the sink and stove area, but that's not a terminal problem. I came to hate it. It was white and the grout never, ever, ever looked anything but just plain dirty. It does not show the dirt. As far as going over another layer, it depends on the quality of the sublayer.
LVT encompasses all vinyl products designed to mimic tile or stone. Generally speaking, however, LVP is the more common and more frequently used acronym. Confused yet? LVP is a composite product comprised of several layers, each working together to create a resilient, low-maintenance flooring. On top of it all, the most critical layer — the wear layer. The wear layer is a thin, clear protective coating that makes the flooring scratch and stain-resistant.
The wear layer thickness typically determines the usage — thinner are residential and thicker wear layer planks are used for commercial floors.
Wear layer thickness varies from 6 mil on the thin end, and 30 mil on the high end. LVP is a more flexible product than some of the other vinyl products on the market, but its strength is aided by the fact that it is a glue-down flooring — permanently affixed to the subfloor with adhesive.
These planks do not interlock or float like their Rigid Core counterparts. Perhaps the most popular vinyl plank flooring product on the market today, and growing quickly, is Rigid Core Vinyl Plank.
The base layer is an attached underlayment of foam or cork, adding comfort underfoot and a small amount of sound absorption. On top of that is the core — where these Rigid Core flooring options get their names — made of a composite of wood or stone powder and plastic or resin. Immediately atop the core is the vinyl layer, using digital technology to add color and print perfection to your home. The icing on this flooring cake is the wear layer, bringing that scuff and scratch resistance.
The wood in the core will not warp, buckle or swell if it comes into contact with water in normal day-to-day use. No glue required! By comparison, SPC vinyl flooring is generally thinner, and the density of the stone-based core allows for a much stronger plank with a thinner profile, 3.
Either way — look to your friends at The Good Guys to help float the best option for your home. While all subfloors will require some level of floor prep before installation, the thicker rigidity of WPC or SPC flooring makes them a great option for uneven subfloors!
This hot new flooring option is available in a wide variety of colors and finishes to get that perfect look for the space. It makes the floor beneath your feet slightly more shock-absorbent and less fatiguing to walk across or stand upon for long periods of time. On a cold morning, vinyl flooring also feels warmer to bare feet than ceramic or stone alternatives.
Vinyl is not a boutique product with only a limited number of manufacturers and product choices. Vinyl flooring can take most anything normal household life can deliver. Manufacturers know better than anyone the expected service life of their products and generally adjust terms of their guarantee to accommodate that figure. Many manufacturers of vinyl flooring now offer a year warranty against premature wear and damage.
That can be considered a baseline figure, however, as properly-installed vinyl flooring given normal maintenance can routinely last 20 years or more.
For maximum durability that exceeds even that figure, choose sheet vinyl over tiles. Seams in any type of floor covering material contribute to deterioration as moisture and grit inevitably infiltrates the seam.
Because it can typically be installed as one piece—or only a very few contiguous pieces—sheet vinyl incorporates few seams and thus offers optimum durability.
In many cases, if the sub-floor in the room is intact and level, vinyl tiles or sheets can be installed over it without modifications or improvements.
Vinyl flooring can be considered the lowest-maintenance flooring material commonly installed in residences. While caveats common to any flooring material—avoid dropping heavy, sharp objects and clean up corrosive or staining spills promptly—also apply to vinyl, excessive care and extra caution are not required.
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